The Mulholland takes dining to a higher level in Calabasas

I’m looking at a dish, and I’m not at all sure how to eat it. I’m sitting at a sunny table at The Mulholland, a former wine shop that’s expanded in a multitude of directions into what may be the most pleasant spot in downtown Calabasas in which to bend an elbow, and munch on a wide variety of decidedly quirky dishes — at least one of which leaves me a tad befuddled.

It’s listed on the menu under the heading “Raw Bar,” a combination of dishes like kusshi oysters, scallops crudo, hamachi crudo and a tasting of Beluga caviar.