I’m a Travel Journalist Who’s Been to Countless High-End Resorts. This Is the One I’d Return to for an Adventurous Couples Getaway

I wake to the hoots of macaques and coos of spotted doves echoing through the trees, the horizon already burning red beyond the gauze curtains. For a second, it doesn’t feel real. Then the humidity hits. I’m in Bali at Buahan, a Banyan Tree Escape, just outside of Ubud, sleeping in a balé (an open-air villa) that feels more like a treehouse than a hotel room. It would be easy to stay buried in the feather bed, cooled by the air conditioning overhead, but I didn’t come here to lie still.

I lace up for a run.