How High Can You Stick-Clip Before It’s No Longer a Send?

Imagine it’s your turn to lead a bolted route at your favorite outdoor crag. Your friend brought a long stick-clip, which reaches impressively high—to the third or even fourth bolt. They ask you how many bolts you’d like pre-clipped. What do you say?

For many sport climbers, including those who are new to climbing outdoors, the answer will depend on the specific route and its decking potential. But it also depends on a very personal understanding of unspoken rules, local ethics, and rarely-discussed definitions.