Bert Kreischer’s Life Lesson About Surfing: ‘It’s Not About the Big Waves’ (Video)

I’ve told this story a handful of times, but here it goes again.

A few years back, I was surfing at Turtle Bay on the North Shore of Oahu. A small day. Summertime. Beginner waves. Everyone in the water was still learning. Attempting to be generous, I let the occasional “set” wave – maybe a two-footer – roll through.

Then, comedian extraordinaire Bert Kreischer paddled out. I was on the outside, and he was further in. I went for a wave, stood up, and Bert began paddling too. I dropped low...