From the outside, Cyprus is perfect.

Sun, space, scenery. The beaches are gorgeous, the cafés are heaving, the sky is blue. The island that seems to have it all.

In many ways, it does. We swim before work, sit outside in January, drive from coast to peaks in under an hour. Neighbours still keep an eye out, children roam freely, and leaving your door unlocked is safe (mostly).

Life on this island feels generous. Spacious. Forgiving. There’s light, there’s warmth, there’s a sense – especially to outsiders – that...