The Art Of Scoring World-Class Waves and Wine In Portugal

Editor's Note: This article is special to surfer from Paris-based wine writer Chris Howard.

The morning air is still and the ocean mirrors the sky as we wind down the path from Areias do Seixo, a five-star eco-resort perched on the cliffs above Santa Cruz, between Ericeira and Nazaré. Low tide has pulled back the blue-green curtain, exposing mussel-laden black rocks. We spot what appear to be seals but turn out to be a pair of aquamen diving for octopus.

Buckets in hand, the proprietor...