No one enters or leaves without the guerrillas' say-so, state-issued IDs are worthless and cocaine production is not just tolerated, but encouraged.
Welcome to Micay Canyon, a lush mountain-fringed valley in southwest Colombia where the self-styled Estado Mayor Central (Central General Staff) are the law.
On dirt roads leading into the valley, rifle-wielding rebels -- some in camouflage, some in civilian clothes -- stop every bike, car or truck trying to enter.
The men at the checkpoints demand to see a rebel-issued ID card...
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