A Big-Deal Pop-up Makes the Most of Its Tiny New Home

A decade after launching her Korean pop-up Banchan by Sunny, Sunny Lee reached the final level of the pop-up challenge late last year when she opened her first restaurant. Sunn’s is a banchan-and-wine bar on a sliver of Division Street that was formerly home to Pig Bar. It seats just 24 diners at a time and is serviced by a kitchenette concealed behind the blond wood bar. It’s there that the day’s assortment of banchan — as well as bubbling soup with crab and chicken dumplings and saucy...