Tao Goes Meat and Potatoes

Video: Gus Aronson

“Spirited or unspirited?” is the first question posed at Crane Club, the banquet-hall-size restaurant that arose from the ashes of Del Posto. The choice of complimentary opening mock- or cocktail — the nights I went, a Mott’s-y combination of apple brandy, juice, sochu, and hojicha — is up to you, but isn’t the whole point of going out to have a spirited evening? Crane Club wants to offer you a good time, by force if necessary.

This is the newest restaurant from Tao Group Hospitality...