Napoleon by Bike

This is the fifth part in a series about riding night trains across Europe and the Near East to Armenia — to spend some time in worlds beyond the pathological obsessions of President-elect Donald Trump. (This week the Trump Rackets and Extortion Ring shook $15 million in protection money loose from ABC News and sued the Des Moines Register for not kissing Trump’s pinky ring in the polling run-up to the 2024 election.)

The 1809 Napoleonic battlefield of Wagram outside Vienna, Austria. The...