By Corinne Purtill, Los Angeles Times
LOS ANGELES — Fifty years ago my great-grandfather Carlo Portolan hauled down from the roof of his Lincoln Heights home a glass jug full of fragrant black booze, warm from 40 days in the sun.
He decanted it into smaller bottles, affixed to each a masking tape label inscribed with the year — 1974 — and passed them around to friends and family.
He died four years later. His bottles of nocino, an Italian liqueur that looks like tar and tastes like Christmas, carried on.