Taste-Off: The best pumpkin butter … and the ones to avoid

It’s the season for all things pumpkin — pumpkin lattes, pumpkin cookies, pumpkin pie — but the one seasonal treat that every pumpkin fan must try is pumpkin butter.

Similar to apple butter, pumpkin butter delivers the earthy flavor of cooked pumpkin in a velvety puree. Spread it on toast, stir it into coffee or hot milk, spoon it over ice cream or simply eat it straight from the jar for an instant shot of fall goodness.

Most brands of pumpkin butter aren’t available year-round, nor are they particularly easy to find ...