Letting the land breathe

We’re outside the church of Panayia Kousouliotissa near the village of Flasou, surrounded by pine, eucalyptus and prickly pear. The field next door looks cultivated, and I wonder what it might be; “Black-eyed peas,” says Marios Skoutellas instantly, giving it a cursory glance. He knows this area well. Just out of sight, behind a row of olive trees, is one of the five locations where he makes his living as a small-scale organic farmer.

Marios isn’t necessarily Marios. Most people – maybe not up here...