Yesterday, friends, current and former staff, and regulars gathered at the Four Horsemen in Williamsburg to mourn Justin Chearno, one of the restaurant’s founding partners, who died unexpectedly this week at the age of 54. (The cause of death is not yet known; he is survived by his wife and son.) The crowd spilled out onto the street, and those who knew him remembered someone whose influence and taste helped to change the entire restaurant industry.
“What made...