Taste-Off: The most delicious coffee ice creams — and the bitter disappointments

There’s something about the nutty, bitter flavor of coffee that just begs to be doctored — with cream, perhaps, or sugar. But for a real treat, add both sugar and cream and freeze the concoction until it becomes one of the most delicious desserts ever — coffee ice cream. Made right, it’s coffee perfection on a spoon.

One of the most loved flavors among java fans, coffee ice cream has been around since 1869, when it was first used in a coffee parfait. Its history is also intertwined with Italian desserts...