Frogs’ Legs Are Back on the Menu

Hanging on the wall inside Le Veau d’Or, the octogenarian bistro that has been refurbished and reopened by chefs Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, is a copy of one of the original menus. It lists “Fresh frogs’ legs provençale” as part of the $3.75 prix fixe. When Hanson and Nasr, along with their executive chef, Jeff Teller, and chef de cuisine, Charlie Izenstein, drafted their own updated roster, they knew they wanted a version of the dish but opted for a butter-forward, tart,...