Restaurant Review: A Brooklyn Tasting Menu with Manhattan Ambition

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There’s a lot to be said for meals that are merely excellent. To be theatrical, to be subversive, to be paradigm-smashing—these are admirable qualities in a restaurant, bien sûr, but there is only so much of one’s face that can be melted, especially over dinner. When it’s a matter of dropping a large quantity of money on a very special meal...