Mediterranean classics are just that at this Sherman Oaks restaurant

The first time I went to Mizlala — an understated and superb Middle Eastern restaurant — there was only one location, on Sepulveda in Sherman Oaks, just as the 405 settles down for a rarely easy drive across the Valley.

It’s a destination for those who crave the shockingly delicious cooking of Chef Danny Elmaleh, who I’ve long thought of as Los Angeles’ answer to Philadelphia’s superb Michael Solomontov, creator of Zahav — for my money, one of the best restaurants in America. What these two men manage to do with hummus and pita...