‘The Bear’ Season 3 Premiere Is Ballsy as Hell

People are divided over whether The Bear is a comedy or a drama. Regardless, I will say this: It is absolutely the best show on television that always gives me a migraine.

After several aspirins, I’m working through what I admired—and was put off by—in the first batch of episodes I watched of Season 3 of the Emmy-winning series, which returned this week. (I cannot handle binge-watching this series; if you can, you have a stronger constitution...