Exploring Guyana’s mighty Essequibo River by boat

James and Jayne Pearce discover theirs is the only yacht in the country cruising up the mighty Essequibo River in remarkable Guyana

You don’t see Guyana as you approach it from the ocean, its low-lying coastline perfectly camouflaged against the hazy tropical horizon as the sun rises. And yet you sense it in so many other ways: the pungent petrichor of South American rainforest, the towering white thunderheads away in the distance, and even in the way the sea itself changes.

The deep...