A Chain Opening That’s Worth Getting Excited About

The chicken at Grandma’s Home, a two-month-old restaurant in Flatiron, is a must-order: A server lifts the lid off a clay pot to reveal the whole bronzed bird underneath, a line of tea leaves and goji berries strewn across the backbone and a still-bubbling pool of concentrated chicken and green-tea jus underneath. The meat is yielding enough for them to dislodge the carcass with just a fork and spoon, leaving diners to pluck their desired pieces. It nearly...