This Might Be the Best Latke in Town

Any restaurant can make an order of $12 fries, but the move from “good” fried potato to “excellent” requires intention, and, sometimes, days of prep work. I’m thinking, in part, of Golden Diner’s home fries, where the potatoes are shredded, rinsed, brined, steamed, pressed, chilled, fried, and chopped before being served next to an egg sandwich stuffed with a hash-brown patty inside as well. You can see why people wait hours for its brunch.

The twice-fried Belgian...