Passengers alighting at Vancouver International Airport land not in the city itself but in the bustling suburb of Richmond, British Columbia—a town filled with the best Chinese food outside (and, some argue, even within) China. Whether a quick bite of old-school pineapple bun (named for the look of the sweet, crunchy topping) at Lido or a multicourse, modern seafood banquet at Chef Tony, Richmond offers variety as wide as China itself, all expertly executed.
At a time when distinct Chinatowns...