“Without doubt, this is the greatest evening of my life,” I thought to myself as I galloped along 7km of deserted, unspoilt beach deep in a southern corner of Indonesia. A burning golden sunset cast the most beautiful light I’d ever seen, with only the sound of the Indian Ocean and the hoof beats of my native Sumbanese pony to accompany it.
This place is special, and it belongs to the natives of the island of Sumba and Nihi, a sanctuary...